Restaurant Review: Next Door

It’s sexy Next Door; the lighting is low, the booths are embracing and the food is sure to illicit sounds of absolute delight. Ben Berryhill’s newest culinary endeavor-- you guessed it, basically next door to Red Drum-- is my new favorite place I can’t wait to go back to.

The Atmosphere

I hate to use the hackneyed term “casual elegance” to describe Next Door’s atmosphere, but that’s exactly what the Mount Pleasant bistro offers. The vibe is relaxed but not subdued. There’s a subtle hum of confidence, energy and fun that emanates from the staff, the plates the kitchen produces and the bartender’s faultless musical choices. You’ll want to stay here through multiple courses.

The Staff

Our waiter was impeccable. There’s something to be said for a server who strikes a balance between being making you feel like an inconvenience and watching you like a hawk. He seemed to enjoy our meal right along with us, guiding us through the wine list and the menu, pointing our favorites and “must try” items. 

The Food

Next Door’s menu is crowded with delicious items, many of which use locally sourced produce, seafood and proteins. Of course, this means the menu changes frequently, so if you hear of a dish your friend loves, best head Next Door as soon as possible.

The salad of baby beets, watermelon radishes, baby carrots and house made mozzarella ($8) with a lemon vinaigrette was like a run through Mr. MacGregor’s garden with a lemon twist. So refreshing, so balanced and so delightful. Who says salads need be boring? The root vegetables, roasted, were tender but still satisfyingly crunchy. The mozzarella served as a creamy foil to the salad’s purity. Definitely a must order. 

There’s something about cutting into a poached egg, and how its liquid gold seductively pours from its tender white albumen cradle. Pair that with freshly made pasta, house made ricotta and nutty brown butter and you’ve got the makings of a decadent yet simple dish. Next Door’s poached egg, ham, and ricotta raviolo ($14) is rich and satiating in its sea of nutty brown butter, though definitely one to share. 

Eating Next Door’s seared duck breast with kale, turnips, duck jus and soubise is tortuous. With each bite there’s less to enjoy, without another bite you feel deprived. Earthy, salty, tender and complete with crisp, seared skin this is how one should prepare duck. The Lucinato kale greens are a substantial partner to the game-like bird, maintaining the dish’s natural flavor profile. The turnips provide a sweetness and necessary textural juxtaposition to the tender duck breast and sautéed kale. The duck jus is intense with solicitous sweet and umami flavors and the soubise (béchamel sauce with puréed onions) serves as nice creamy accent. This, too, is a must-order.

The Verdict

Next Door is simply fabulous. The atmosphere, food and staff make this venue a beautiful location for a romantic dinner for two, or, alternatively, a fun outing for a sophisticated group. Expect entrées to be priced between $15 and $25, starters below $15-- though each dish is worth every penny. The wine list is interesting in the best way possible. Ask your server for suggestions.

Restaurant Review: Basil (Mount Pleasant)

One can take only so much turkey, mashed potatoes and stuffing this time of year. When my palate had reached rich food overload Thanksgiving weekend, I headed over to Basil for lively curries to wake myself up from a tryptophan haze.

The Atmosphere

The Mount Pleasant location of Basil has a very hip, zen vibe. The large stone Buddha statue and sand garden as you walk into the front door only reminds you of where the chef got his inspiration for your meal. The décor is clean, minimal and relaxed but not sleepy. 

The Staff

Basil’s staff was very attentive and gracious but not as warm as I’d expect from a restaurant located in Mount Pleasant. 

The Food

Famished, I downed an order of Fresh Basil Rolls ($5.50) which didn’t really do much to take the edge off. Though the rice paper wrapped appetizers are tasty there’s not much to them. Though, the Thai basil really sings against the rice noodles, shrimp, bean sprouts and spicy and sweet dipping sauce.

As an entrée I ordered the Basil with beef as my protein ($15.50), which would have been enough for two had I not still been ravenous. The beef was very tender but the entrée lacked star power. In fact, there was nothing memorable about the dish flavor-wise. 

I was lucky enough to sneak a few bites of Pad See-Eu ($15.50), a dish of flat rice noodles stir fried in a slightly sweet soy sauce with broccoli, garlic and, in this case, tofu. I absolutely hate when fried tofu arrives soggy. This is not the case with Basil. The dish arrives with crispy tofu beautifully incorporated into a lightly sweet sauce that’s got a lot of balance. It’s one of few noodle dishes you’ll walk away feeling satisfied without feeling heavy.

The Verdict

Basil, for what it is, is expensive. Though I’m sure I’ll be back, I was expecting a much livelier set of flavors, with the exception of the Pad See-Eu. With quite a few delicious sounding cocktails (all around the $10 mark) and a certain degree of panache Basil is a great Mount Pleasant venue for date night. Alternatively, the restaurant definitely is capable of accommodating families.

Three Course Thursdays: Triangle Char and Bar

This originally appeared on my Patch.com column.

Regardless of its origin, the hamburger is to me quintessentially American. One can never have too many great burger joints at one’s disposal. The Charleston area definitely has a few, although I’m not sure I’d count Triangle Char and Bar amongst them.

The Atmosphere

The design, décor and atmosphere of Mount Pleasant’s Triangle Char and Bar is casual, fun and a little bit funky. I love the industrial whimsy of the interior and the fact that the bar opens up to the outdoors. This is especially important on Sundays when the hungry brunch crowd must satiate their appetites with pitchers of mimosas while waiting for a table.

The Service

The two times I’ve visited Triangle Char and Bar the staff has been knowledgeable and helpful. My most recent experience was no exception. I’m not a regular at Triangle Char and Bar so I wasn’t aware that Thursdays are “Three Course Thursdays.” I’m so glad my server clued me into this fantastic deal. Who can pass up a snack (read: appetizer), a burger and a draft beer for $15? I couldn’t.

The Food

I took advantage of the “Three Course Friday” deal and started my meal with livers, fried chicken livers, tasso gravy, stone ground grits and a fried egg. If you’re a fan of fried chicken livers, you have to get this—you’ll be presented with three perfectly fried chicken livers, very creamy grits, beautifully salty tasso gravy and an orb of golden egg yolk prepared to bring the whole dish to life.

I really like burgers. I’m of the belief that designer burgers and “plain jane” burgers both have their place in this world (and my stomach). I also believe that burgers should always be cooked on a flat top or in a skillet and not grilled (tailgating is the only exception). This way, all of the fantastic drippings, fat and flavor that cook out of a burger make its way back. Grilling just doesn’t impart the same flavor or deliver the same juicy patty.

I ordered “the yank”—a burger topped with Swiss cheese, sautéed mushrooms and horseradish mayo. The burger itself was good but took itself out of the running for great because it was dry and a little overcooked (I normally order my burgers medium). The horseradish mayo is delicious. I suggest you request a bit extra on the side for dipping your burger and fries.

In case you were wondering, I ordered an Allagash White for my draft beer. (Yum!)

The Verdict

Whoever thought up “Three Course Thursdays” is a genius. On it’s own, it’s a great deal. For the menu items you have to choose from at Triangle Char and Bar, it’s an absolute steal. Great for hanging out with friends and watching the game, not the ideal setting for a romantic date, Triangle Char and Bar serves up decent burgers and new twists on bar food sure to please a broad spectrum of palates.

What's your favorite burger place? What did you order at Triangle Char and Bar?

A Night In Jacob's Kitchen

The bar had been set high before I even walked through the front door of Jacob’s Kitchen, the southern restaurant located at 148 Civitas Street in I’On. I called earlier in the day to make a reservation. “Are we celebrating anything this evening? Girl’s night out? A birthday? Are there any dietary considerations we should be made aware of?” asked Dan, the voice at the other end of the phone.

“No,” I replied, “Though we do have a vegetarian joining us.”

“Not a problem,” said Dan. “We offer a variety of vegetarian choices. We’ll also be happy to modify any of the other items on the menu.”

“If the phone service is any indication,” I thought, “Tonight is going to be fantastic.”

I was wrong.

The Atmosphere

Jacob’s Kitchen is a small restaurant attached to the Inn at I’On. The association with the boutique inn is discernable considering the hostess’ stand feels a bit like a hotel check in. Though comfortable, the restaurant’s interior is nondescript. The walls and napkins are beige, the tables and chairs are brown and the hanging light fixtures are black. Unfortunately, Jacob’s Kitchen doesn’t offer the warmth or hospitality one would expect from a restaurant that’s part of a boutique inn, let alone one located in I’On.

The Service

The service was, by far, the most disappointing aspect of the meal. My two cohorts and I were having some difficulty deciding what to order, as many of the menu items sounded good. Our server was attentive at first, coming back to check on us twice before he left us to “give us some time to decide.” He gave us far too much time; time enough to notice that he had taken drink and dinner orders for one table that had been seated many, many minutes after us. Time enough for the table to our left to become disgruntled enough to get up and leave due to being ignored.

During the meal itself, our server never refilled our water glasses. After placing our dinner orders, we overheard another server reciting what sounded like the evening’s dinner specials to the table behind us. This was the first we had heard of them. 

The Food

As far as the food is concerned at Jacob’s Kitchen, there aren’t many dishes that scream traditional southern cuisine. Shrimp and Grits ($12) is the only obvious exception. There are, however, southern touches here and there, which align with the restaurant’s ‘new southern cuisine’ theme. The Kobe Beef Burger ($10) is topped with pimento cheese. The Olive Oil Braised Duck ($16) includes a warm white bean and asparagus salad, and the Kobe Beef Meatloaf ($12.50) is partnered with succotash and red eye gravy.

To start, I ordered the Asparagus “Fries” ($6). Fried in beer batter and served with a Cajun aioli, I’d definitely recommend these to anyone. Each asparagus stalk was fried to perfection; the batter itself was crispy, delicious and fluffy. The asparagus themselves were cooked all the way through yet still had a crunch. The Cajun-spiced aioli was a nice touch, though not completely needed.

As an entrée I ordered the Bronzed Scallop & Shrimp Salad ($13). Grilled shrimp and scallops arrived before me atop mixed greens tossed in a buttermilk lime dressing served with artichoke hearts, tomatoes, a large fried grit crouton, cucumbers, crumbled goat cheese, and mesquite grilled onions. I found myself taking extra bites willing myself to like this uninspired salad. Aside from the cold grilled mesquite onions and undercooked scallops my biggest complaint was the disharmonious flavors in the buttermilk lime dressing. The tang of the buttermilk did not work in concert with the tang of the goat cheese. The addition of lime did not help. Three different notes of sourness resulted in unpleasant discord on my tongue. I left almost all of my salad on my plate.

Of course, I tasted everything else that came to the table.

Jacob’s Wedgie ($5.50) was a great take on the classic wedge salad. The iceberg wedge was crisp, ice cold and refreshing with just the right amount of bacon, tomatoes and a fantastic house made blue cheese dressing.

The Steamed Mussels ($9) were good but not outstanding. As she began slurping the lemon-herb and white wine broth at the bottom of the bowl my friend came across bits of sand and grit. The flavors were good, just a bit too lemony for me personally.

One large bite into one of the Shrimp Spring Rolls ($7) and I wondered, “Where’s the shrimp?” Though the portion size is large, the Shrimp Spring Rolls aren’t anything special.

The Verdict

It will be awhile before I return to Jacob’s Kitchen.  The service was aggravatingly disappointing and the food was a let down. Sadly, my time and money would have been better spent dining in my own kitchen.

Restaurant Review: Uno Mas

I have the worst luck with Mexican restaurants. My visits to Cantina Laredo and Taco Lu both left me dissatisfied. Unfortunately my first visit to Uno Mas ended the same way.

Uno Mas is located just off North Highway 17 at 880 Allbritton Boulevard. The interior is quirky, in a good way. That’s one of my favorite things about Mexican restaurants the décor always puts you in the mood for a good time and Uno Mas is no exception.

One glance at Uno Mas’ lunch menu and I was excited. That’s another thing I love about Mexican restaurants; how can you go wrong with fresh flavors like lime and cilantro paired with deliciously spicy proteins? So often Mexican cuisine is undervalued and underestimated for it’s complexities. In addition, Uno Mas belongs to the same family of restaurants as Boulevard Diner, the Village Bakery and Mustard Seed, a flavor-packed favorite restaurant of mine. I couldn’t wait to try Sal’s spin on South of the Border dishes.

How do two soft tacos filled with Mahi Mahi, jicama slaw, cumin cilantro mayo and mango salsa sound to you? It sounded good to me, too—that’s why I ordered it. Served with jicama and roasted corn slaw this lunch entrée sounded filling and fresh without putting me in the mood for a nap back at work.

The Mahi Mahi tasted fishy.  There was barely any mango salsa. The jicama and roasted corn slaw were delicious and fresh, but slaw shouldn’t be the best part of your meal. I devoured the slaw and ate one taco, but left one on my plate.

Our waiter possessed a shy eagerness to please—it was after all his first day on the job. He was very attentive and very, very sweet. He kept our diet cokes filled and prepared us to-go cups, which earned him bonus points on top of a perfect service score.

Even though I left dissatisfied with my meal, I’ll still be giving Uno Mas a second try. Every restaurant has an “off” day and I did hit the restaurant at the tail end of the lunch shift. The menu still has items I want to try (Grilled Shrimp Quesadilla, Sopa de Lima, Pork Enchilada).

Have you been to Uno Mas? What was your experience like? What should I order next time?

Restaurant Review: Bricco Bracco

You can also read this review of Bricco Bracco on my weekly column on Mount Pleasant Patch.com

 You’ll be greeted by the warmth of the kitchen and the smell of garlic as soon as you walk through the doors of Bricco Bracco, the Italian restaurant located at 1161 Basketweave Drive in Mount Pleasant.

The Atmosphere

Bricco Bracco offers a comfortable and unpretentious atmosphere. The open kitchen in the back of the restaurant sends periodic wafts of Italian fare over the heads of its patrons. Though the restaurant has a family feel to it, it’s equally appropriate for date night.

The Service

The staff here is to be applauded. During my visit my entrée took almost 30 minutes to appear after my Caesar Salad. The waitress handled the situation quite well.  Our water glasses were never empty and despite being busy for a Wednesday night we were not forgotten. On several occasions the manager stepped in to freshly grind black pepper and ask if he could get us anything. Our waitress also had a great sense of humor and even appreciated my deadpan sarcasm, responding by leaving a playful note on my delicious leftovers.

The Food

Make no mistake; this isn’t an old-world style Italian restaurant. There are a few nods to traditional Italian cuisine with dishes like Veal Saltimbocca, Chicken Marsala and Eggplant Parmesan on the menu, but Bricco Bracco balances its offerings with more modern plates, too, like Spaghetti with Veal Meatballs and some in-house creations.

I began the meal with a Caesar Salad. The dressing was good, albeit disappointing. The menu promised anchovies and I didn’t detect the fish’s brininess whatsoever. The dressing was also more pesto-like than Caesar-like and the croutons were stale.

Waiting 30 minutes between courses in a small restaurant on a Wednesday night isn’t exactly a deal breaker, but it’s unwelcome. However, all of my sourness disappeared after one bite of my Salmon Bricco Bracco: pan seared salmon atop a very healthy serving of tomato basil risotto with essence of basil and French fried leeks.

There are a few dishes that indicate the quality of your kitchen staff. If you’re in a French restaurant it’s soufflé. In an Italian restaurant it’s risotto. It’s a dish that requires patience and timing. It’s not a dish that every one makes well. Bricco Bracco makes fantastic risotto. Risotto so fantastic that it may just be worth a 30-minute wait. The classic combination of tomato and basil skyrockets to a whole new level when it’s no longer limited to a caprese salad. It tastes like all the best parts of a tomato; there’s the tiniest bit of vine-ripened sweetness and a touch of tomato’s ubiquitous acidity at play in this dish. Both are brought out by subtle hints of basil. The pan seared salmon was well cooked. I appreciated that Bricco Bracco kept the salmon’s seasonings simple and let the fish’s natural fattiness and flavors shine instead of competing with the tomato basil risotto. The French fried leeks were a nice touch (although not really needed) but I won’t say no to something fried.

My friend, who tagged along for the evening, ordered the Bruschetta Pizza. As a vegetarian, she seemed pleased with the meat-free options on the menu. The Bruschetta Pizza was good: crispy pizza crust topped with plum tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, arugula, Bermuda onions and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. Everything was fresh and had a lot of flavor. 

The Verdict

Bricco Bracco is a good casual Italian restaurant that caters to families with children and to couples who are out for a “just us two” meal. The menu isn’t adventurous but the traditional flavors of Italy are absolutely present in their dishes. If everything is as good as the Salmon Bricco Bracco, this may be my new favorite Italian restaurant.